Weimar
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In July 1926, Hitler felt strong enough to hold a mass rally of the Party at Weimar, in Thuringia, one of the few States in which he was still allowed to speak. Five thousand men took part in the march past, with Hitler standing in his car and returning their salute, for the first time, with outstretched arm. Hoffman's photographs made it all look highly impressive, and a hundred thousand copies of the Volkischer Beobachter were distributed throughout the country. It was the first of the Reichsparteitage later to be staged, year after year, at Nuremberg.
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Julius Schaub cupped his hand over one ear and grunted. ‘Mein Fuehrer, do you remember the Hotel Elephant at Weimar!’ ‘And how!’ said Hitler. ‘My regular rooms had running water but no WC, so I had to walk down this long corridor and vanish into the little room at the end. It was sheer purgatory every time, because when I left my room word spread around the hotel like wildfire, and when I emerged from the closet they were all waiting to cheer me and I had to give the Hitler salute and a rather embarrassed smile all the way back to my room. Later on I had that hotel rebuilt.’ Irving (778) Hitler's War
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Lieber Führer, komm heraus aus dem Elephantenhaus, Lieber Führer sieh doch ein, wir können nicht mehr länger schrein’ Lieber Führer, geh nicht fort, bleib an diesem schönen Ort. [Dear Führer, come on out, out of the Elephant House. Dear Führer, please do see we can’t scream any longer. Dear Führer, don’t go away – in this pretty place you should stay.]Even when he was not there, the hotel remained a popular attraction for Germans. Yet not all were satisfied with their visit. Paul Gerhard, a local reporter, tour guide and Heimat historian wrote about the experiences of a ‘poor comrade from the village’, who had visited the Elephant Hotel ‘to see where our Führer lives’ and left ‘shocked at the high drink prices’. Still, the hotel drew its share of Weimar’s guests and viewing it became one of the highlights of the city’s Nazi tourist culture.
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Berlin was not the only city in which new building projects were designed and executed under Hitler. In Weimar, there was the enormous Gauforum on the massive square, Platz Adolf Hitlers. Hitler had made the first thrust of the spade (Spatenstich) on 4 July 1936 during the festivities to mark the tenth anniversary of the second Reich Party Rally. Heralded as the ‘fundament of a new classicism’, the Gauforum, designed by architect Hermann Giesler, was intended to serve as a new centre of National Socialist power in the state of Thuringia. The three buildings, meant to surround a gigantic parade ground, were to house offices for the district leadership, individual divisions of the Party and the German Labour Front. An enormous meeting hall, the Hall of the National Community, was also planned. The Nazis had plans for similarly massive governmental complexes elsewhere in the Reich, but the Gauforum was the first and only on which construction actually began. The site of the Gauforum was soon added to the tourist’s itinerary, but tourism brochures often relied on photographs of architectural models since the complex was never fully completed.
Kristin Semmens, Seeing Hitler's Germany: Tourism in the Third Reich
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Sauckel and Hitler at groundbreaking July 4, 1936 |
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The most famous city in the hilly region, Weimar, was taken on the 12th. Buchenwald was so close to Weimar that its ancient trees had been the object of Goethe’s daily walks, and yet the Weimarer insisted that they had not known what was happening behind the barbed wire. To some extent this was true, but prisoners were used for menial tasks around the town and had been involved in the often mortal work building the new Adolf- Hitler-Platz between the old town and the railway station. Even if they had been unclear about the extent of the brutality, they knew full well that the prisoners were abused and maltreated.
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Hitler in front; Hess in backseat |
According to Hans Pohlsander, "Weimar boasts one of the most famous and most beloved monuments in all of Germany, the Goethe–Schiller monument in front of the Nationaltheater" which Paul Zanker argues represented the start of "a true cult of the monument [when] the Germans began to see themselves, faute de mieux, as "the people of poets and thinkers." There are replicas in Cleveland, Syracuse, Milwaukee and San Francisco and even a smaller one in Anting, a "German-themed" town outside Shanghai. From May 1942 to 1945 the monument - the only one in the city - was walled in for protection against air raids; in the summer of 1945 it was restored.
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Behind the statue on the facade of the theatre shown on the right is the memorial tablet designed by Walter Gropius commemorating the adoption of the first democratic constitution in Germany being removed by SA men in March 1933. A replica of the panel can be seen to the left of the entrance behind. It had been inaugurated on August 11, 1922, after the ceremony began at 16.00 with a speech from the former Minister of State which ended with a cheer for the republic and the daughter of Minister of State Frölich unveiling the memorial.
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In 1941 the first heavy bombing raids were flown on German cities, and the furniture here used by Friedrich Schiller was deemed important cultural relics. The Schiller Museum was also kept open to the war-weary "national community" to suggest perseverance. Thus on February 17, 1942 a consultation on the "Protection of cultural sites, art treasures and cultural assets" adopted the measure to produce faithful copies of the museum's items whilst the originals were brought to the basement of what was left of the Nietzsche Memorial Hall. The workshops of the ϟϟ in Buchenwald concentration camp offered a pragmatic and cost-effective way where the inmates made forty wooden crates for storage of smaller items, as well as copies of Schiller's desk, bed, two chairs and spinet. The city government was pleased with the quality of the reproductions highly satisfied and the mayor had a affix a plaque with the following text in the Schiller House affixed: "Furniture in Schiller's work and death room are replicas of the originals now placed in safety." After the war, the original furnishings were returned to the Schiller House.
In September 1934 the Prussian Ministry of Education received an angry letter from a Mr Heinrich Ludendorff: ‘As is conveyed to me by reliable sources,’ he wrote, ‘a volume of the Jewish philosopher Moses Mendelssohn has lain for years in the Schiller House in Weimar as the only book on this German poet’s writing desk in his study. ... Visitors to this room ... [have] struggled in vain for a long time to have this book removed.’ The 1930 guide to the house confirms that Mendelssohn’s ‘philosophical writings’ did indeed lie on the desk alongside a quill pen, a letter opener and a globe. The Thuringian Minister for Education requested more information on the matter. In response, the director of the Schiller House, Professor Eduard Scheidemantel, made a moving, eloquent plea to leave the book where it was, claiming he had never heard any calls for its removal. Scheidemantel’s arguments were ignored: the book was removed and guides to the house no longer mentioned it. Guides to the Goethe House during the Nazi period remarked that the only things missing from that poet’s study, which otherwise remained in the same condition as just after his death, were ‘a few meaningless pieces, among them, several books’. It is tempting to attribute this absence to the kind of cultural cleansing that occurred at the Schiller House. Likewise, it is possible to see the ‘thorough re-arrangement’ of the rooms in the Kirms-Krackow-House, which took place in the Third Reich and which ‘freed [them] from all foreign ingredients’, in a similar light. Proof that the cultural sites of memory underwent alterations along such blatantly ideological lines in Weimar or elsewhere in Germany is difficult to obtain. But these kinds of disappearing acts are easy to detect in that other essential item of touristic equipment, the map.
Semmens (60-61)
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Also affected were the Goethe House, Vulpius Houses, Schiller House, Residenzschloss, Goethe's Garden House, Kirms-Krackow House, Sächsischer Hof and Deutschritterhaus. These culturally valuable buildings were largely rebuilt with quite a few - despite the general shortage - already shortly after the war. In the last months of the war, Weimar and the surrounding area also suffered heavily from low-flying aircraft attacks. Particularly tragic was the death of 117 Allied prisoners of war who died on February 27, 1945 on the autobahn west of Weimar as a result of gunfire from American fighter-bombers.
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Buchenwald Concentration Camp was built in July 1937 in the direct vicinity of Weimar, the city of German Classicism. It was to this concentration camp on Ettersberg Mountain that the ϟϟ deported men, teenagers and children – political opponents to the Nazi regime, so-called asocials and criminals, homosexuals, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Jews, Sinti and Roma – who had no place in the National Socialist "people's community". Following the outbreak of the war, the Nazis sent people from nearly every country in Europe to Buchenwald. At the time of the camp’s liberation, ninety-five percent of its inmates were from countries outside Germany. Between 1937 and 1945, altogether more than 250,000 persons were imprisoned here. The inmates in the Buchenwald ”parent camp“ and its total of 136 subcamps were ruthlessly exploited. In 1944 the ϟϟ administration of Buchenwald took charge of camps in which women and girls were forced to work for the German armament industry. Some 56,000 human beings met their deaths in Buchenwald and its subcamps; they were killed, they starved to death, they died of illness or as victims of medical experiments. Many inmates, among them more than 8,000 Soviet prisoners of war, were systematically murdered by the ϟϟ.
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The Allies were slow to liberate the Little Camp. The stench was appalling. They found a number of children there when they finally braved it, including a three-year-old boy. The inmates died in large numbers even after the Americans began to feed them. The liberators learned that they could function only by repressing all emotion. On 16 April George Patton decided that the inhabitants of Weimar should know what had been happening on the Ettersberg. His men made a thousand or so inhabitants line up in the Paulinenstrasse and marched them off to the camp a kilometre away. Among them were some of the Nazi bigwigs of the city. American cameramen were on hand to film their reactions. The Americans wanted the full propaganda effect, and news of the site-inspection spread as far as Vienna. On the way to the camp there was much amused talk, particularly from the women and girls dressed for the occasion in their last finery. They showed no sign of knowing what to expect.
Their cheerful mood vanished when they saw the heaps of bodies covered with quick-lime. Women began to weep and faint. The men covered their faces and turned their heads away. Many of them huddled together for comfort. One of the inmates who had been spared Hitler’s order to murder the last inhabitants of the camp was Imre Kertész, the Hungarian writer, then aged fifteen. He remembered the scene: the Americans had given him some chewing gum, which he belaboured with his jaw while he gazed lazily from the typhus isolation huts to the mass graves in the distance.
MacDonogh (86-87)
Strangely, we did not "feel" the victory. There were no joyous embraces, no shouts or songs to mark our happiness, for that word was meaningless to us. We were not happy. We wondered whether we ever would be ... Yes, Hitler lost the war, but we didn't win it. We mourned too many dead to speak of victory.At first, Buchenwald was created as a detention camp. There were three main areas, a large camp for the prisoners who were considered political dissidents; a small camp that was called a quarantine camp, and tented section for the prisoners arriving from Poland. As the War progressed, the inmates were forced to engage in the production of arms at the nearby Gustloff factory and at the quarries. The first prisoners were forced to take part in both the creation and the maintenance of their own systems of torture and oppression, building the road, the railway line and the extensive barracks, interrogation chambers and crematoria.
Unlike the other camps, Buchenwald was not a termination camp. It was a labour camp, if people died, it was because they could not withstand the terrible conditions of work, or because they tried to escape from the camp and were either torn to pieces by the guard dogs, or shot in the woods. Between 1937 and 1945, more than 250,000 of them were held prisoners, 50,000 of them died here.
Standing beside the site of the so-called Goethe oak, named by inmates in commemoration of Goethe’s frequent visits to the Ettersberg hill. In July 1937, the ϟϟ
brought inmates from the camp at Sachsenhausen to clear 370 acres of
forest above the town which, as the home of Goethe and his meeting place
with Schiller, symbolises classical German culture. The Nazis spared
one magnificent oak, known to be a favourite of Goethe and his love
Charlotte von Stein, and made it the centre of a concentration camp
built to imprison and work to death Hitler's opponents and victims.' The
irony was not lost on people of the time. In May 1939, just before his
death, the Austrian Jewish emigre novelist and journalist Joseph Roth
devoted an article to the Goethe Oak declaring that "[s]ymbolism has never been as
cheap as it is today. Between the laundry and the kitchen [in the camp]
stands the oak tree of Madam von Stein and Goethe-and as such it is a
protected historical monument. Every day the prisoners of this
concentration camp pass by this oak tree, or rather: they are made to
pass by it."
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This part of the old railway line has been visible again since 2007 through the "Buchenwaldbahn memorial path" which begins shortly after the "blood road" and ends at the loading dock of the concentration camp, next to the former Gustloff works. It has a length of just under three miles.
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Rise in far-Right visits to former Nazi concentration camps...
The DDR’s Buchenwald memorial complex dually failed to accurately portray historical truth, and it substituted the transmission of traumatic memory for romanticised fabrications. Furthermore the destruction of most original architecture (probably to erase the evidence of postwar Soviet atrocities in the site) eradicated Buchenwald’s historical authenticity, without any resulting representative benefits as previously outlined.
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Ever since Buchenwald, the Nazi concentration camp, was built on Ettersberg -almost within view of the sites of German classicism—the name of the city has become linked with the darkest hours of Germany's history and the betrayal of the humanistic ideals and values, conceived in Weimar. This was a disgraceful injustice which had an infamous sequel, when the Soviets ran their own detention camp on the same site from 1946-1952 [sic]. Therefore, Weimar is quite possibly unique in representing the fateful ambivalence and the Janus-faced character of German history. Like no other place, Weimar raises the question of whether a humanistic culture is strong enough to resist all forms of political barbarism. In a time of newly arising antagonisms in Europe, of political fundamentalism and national egotism, Weimar presents itself as a place of calm reflection and thoughtfulness, and as a source of humanitarian visions for the next millennium.